Perlage

Perlage has delivered something very special in the Borgo Faveri white: a biodynamic wine of intrigue and pleasure that drinks rich but only packs 12% alcohol. To the uninitiated, this Marche vineyard's Falanghina and Fiano driven blend is somewhat redolent of a Rhône white. The wine opens up into notes of melon and pomelo, the aroma broadening to become more intense than the gentle 12% alcohol content would suggest, showing waxy and rich in red apple and watermelon, decorated with apple blossoms and dried flowers and a touch of sandalwood. The gorgeously rounded mouthfeel and long finish also bely the price point, showing anjou pears, red apples, and more of those waxy apple skin notes that pair so nicely with entrée salads and brunch fare.

This wine hits on so many levels, not least its demonstration of what better farming could look like at scale. This vineyard sits in rich clays and is trained in the old-school Tendone system with vines over 20 years old and a living soil beneath your feet. If wine producers can achieve this kind of soil-building farming with these kinds of delicious results AND do it at scale enough to deliver real value to the end customer, then viticulture could guide the way for agriculture as a whole to rebuild the planet's arable soils and make more nutritive food the norm.