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Vino Al Vino

Luneau Papin

2007 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Cru Goulaine AOC Excelsior

Every library release of Luneau Papin's most famous wine, the Excelsior, is an exciting event, and this year's is extra exciting: the 2007 — a Muscadet that beat the odds to somehow pull down a 99 point score. This wine encounters you with a host of aromas you are unlikely to see coming. I found in it notes of basque cheese cake, parmigiano rind, tapioca pudding, anise, and something so softly minty in a baked way like a girl guide's chocolate mint cookie. And then as it opens you're met with notes of fenugreek, toasted cashew, stewed fig, and something altogether indescribable but deeply lactic in nature—I know that sounds perhaps too visceral to be enticing but it truly is. It is a poetic experience.
On the palate there's this surprising zest, sleek and refined with a lot of crazy ideas to convey and an equally crazy finish, this beautifully mushroom-laced depth, sweet apple butter and figgy jam and lemon curd and swiss fondue. In conclusion: this is definitely how Excelsior is meant to be enjoyed, with 15-20 years of age on it—such an intense adventure of a wine.

Mother rock of schist and micaschist, 100% Selection Massale vines from The Luneau’s most famous plot (les Noëlles in the village of La Chapelle-Heulin) planted in 1936! • Matured 36 months in traditional underground glass-lined vats on the lees.
France
White
Still
Biodynamic
Vegan
Oak ageing

Region:  Pays Nantais, Loire Valley

Appellation:  Muscadet Sèvre & Maine Cru Goulaine AOC

Varietal/Blend:  100% Melon de Bourgogne

ABV:  12.5%

Vineyard & Vine Age: Spring soil preparation has been performed in a traditional manner (earthing down and hoeing)
throughout the entire estate since 2009. We treat and take care of the vines with natural preparations
(no chemical products) and sow cover crops such as pulses and cereals at the end of summer,
with close attention to the needs of each crop. We stimulate soil life with one or two applications
of horn dung; (preparation 500) in spring and apply a horn silica (preparation 501) after bloom and
before harvest if necessary. Vines are short cut pruned (single guyot) during winter. Vine density is
6,500 plants per hectare. Careful sorting is carried out in the vineyard by grape harvesters.

Cellar: Grapes are pressed in a pneumatic press, strength and length of pressing is adapted to each
vintage. Spontaneous fermentation using only natural yeasts. Fermentation and maturation on
lees 12 months in underground concrete tank and glass lined vats + 12 months in wooden tun
(1500 L) without racking until bottling during summer time 2023.

CSPC:  865324

Winemakers Note:  Serve at 12°C.
Dressed spider crab served with a creamy roe emulsion. Smoked blue lobster with beurre blanc sauce.

What the Critics are saying:  From Decanter Magazine’s 2017 Panel Tasting of Muscadet with Jim Budd, Chris Kissack, and Ben Llewellyn: 99 Points, Drinking Window 2017-2033:
JB: Pronounced toasty aromas from lees aging and bottle age, followed by a richly textured and lightly honeyed palate with wonderful complexity and superb length. Suspect this is great value too. CK: Thanks to its time in bottle, this has evolved beautifully - evidenced by a nose of smoky fruit and a substantial yet elegant palate with notes of truffle and white pepper enhanced by a vibrant seam of minerality; bright, long, and complete. BL: A scintillating yet subtle nose with creamy aromas allied to white fruit, honeycomb and plum, while the beautifully formed palate glides effortlessly between richness and acidity, and finishes with a delicious lift. A really lovely, complete, wine.

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