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Vino Al Vino

Domaine Albert Boxler

2022 Alsace AOC Gentil

Boxler’s Gentil shows off that lithe, aromatic Alsatian charm in a vibrant, food-friendly frame. Blends like this were the norm before phylloxera and the redemption-arc of these wines when made from carefully farmed fruit is clearly on display here. On the nose I find notes of rose-lemonade, Turkish delight, pistachio, and hints of white grapefruit and jasmine. On the palate this wine is so wonderfully balanced, a testament to a time when these grapes were made as field blends for that precise purpose. There is a surprisingly robust citrusy concentration on the mid palate, with lots of meyer lemon and mandarin and white grapefruit, leading to a mouthwatering finish of orange blossom and gin-like chords of juniper and coriander seed. An extremely well fashioned and alluring drink that offers hints of florals without want of power and density, coming together to make a super-versatile food pairing wine. I would love to try it with white fish (sautéed or poached), Linguine alle Vongole, or Hamachi and butterfish nigiri.
France
White
Still
Organic
Vegan
Oak ageing

Region:  Niedermorschwihr, Alsace

Appellation:  Alsace AOC

Varietal/Blend:  Riesling, Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer, Muscat

ABV:  13.0%

Vineyard & Vine Age: Organic estate vineyards (certified for over twenty years). Precision-farmed entirely by hand. Vines as old as eighty years, only replanted (with selection massale) on an individual basis as needed. Boxler always harvests when the fruit reaches its own natural maturity (resisting the trend to pick earlier to guarantee fully dry ferments) and may therefore contain some degree of residual sugar in the final wine, depending on the vintage. No fertilizing, ever.

Cellar: Hand sorted fruit goes into one of three pneumatic presses for an obsessively careful pressing that can last from four to twelve hours, fractioning out various pressures to blend back in or omit from each wine according to its needs. The juice is then patiently cold-settled before being racked (gravity-fed) into old French oak foudres (never into new oak, Boxler's foudres range from five years of age to over a century old). Fermentation occurs naturally with indigenous yeasts. As a rule, the wines remain on their lees unless at some point in the span of ageing they begin to taste reductive, at which time they'll rack the wine off the lees and return it to the foudre to finish its élevage. The wine is bottled after 11 months in foudre with a small SO2 addition to ensure purity. The wines are never fined and receive a very light filtration only when necessary to guarantee quality.

(NB: The identical ageing regimen and vessel size is used for every Boxler wine to provide more objective comparisons between each vintage and terroir, vertically and horizontally. The only exception is that the Gewurztraminers, Vendanges Tardives, and SGN's age in stainless steel as opposed to oak).

CSPC:  128369

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